An original, simplified pattern inspired by your photo. The exact stitch pattern cannot be determined from the image; this version is untested.
Materials
- Sport-weight cotton: approximately 400–500 g cream, plus small amounts of mustard, rust, burgundy, olive and taupe.
- 3 mm crochet hook, or a size that gives a firm but flexible fabric.
- Yarn needle, scissors and a little stuffing for the berries.
US terms: ch = chain; sl st = slip stitch; sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; dc = double crochet; tr = treble crochet.
Size: Make 16 squares, arranged 2 wide × 8 long. With blocked squares measuring 12 cm, the base measures approximately 24 × 96 cm before edging.
1. Cream lace squares — make 16
Begin with a magic ring.
- Round 1: Ch 3, counting as the first dc. Work 15 dc into the ring. Join to the top of ch 3. 16 dc.
- Round 2: Ch 5, counting as dc + ch 2. Work (dc in next stitch, ch 2) around. Join to the third starting chain. 16 ch-2 spaces.
- Round 3: Sl st into the first space. Ch 3, then work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in that same space for the first corner. Work 3 dc in each of the next 3 spaces. In the next space work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc); work 3 dc in each of the next 3 spaces. Repeat from * twice more. Join.
- Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in every dc, working (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in each corner space. Join and fasten off.
Block all squares to the same size. Whipstitch them together through the back loops in a 2 × 8 arrangement.
2. Base border
Join cream at a corner.
Work sc evenly around the runner, placing (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner. At seams, adjust the spacing so the edge lies flat. Join and fasten off.
3. Autumn leaves
These simple oval leaves replace the more intricate maple and oak shapes pictured.
Leaf centre
Ch 13.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, work:
sc, hdc, dc in each of the next 2 chains, tr in each of the next 4, dc in each of the next 2, hdc, sc.
Work 2 additional sc into the final chain to turn around the tip. Continue along the unused loops on the opposite side:
sc, hdc, 2 dc, 4 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, each stitch in a separate chain.
Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Textured edge
Ch 1. Sc around the leaf. After every third sc, make a picot: ch 3, sl st into the first of those 3 chains. Finish with a sl st.
For a stem, ch 5 and sl st back along the chain, starting in the second chain from the hook. Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.
Make approximately 18–22 leaves, mixing the autumn colours.
Leaf veins: With matching or darker yarn, embroider a central line using backstitch, then add short diagonal branches.
4. Decorative edge leaves
Make smaller leaves using ch 9.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, work:
sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc.
Add 2 sc in the final chain, then repeat the sequence down the opposite side. Join.
For a cream outline, join cream and sc around, adding a picot after every third stitch. Leave a long sewing tail.
Make enough to space evenly around the runner. Sew each leaf’s base securely to the border, with its tip pointing outward.
5. Berries
Make in burgundy, rust and mustard. Work in continuous rounds.
- Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.
- Round 2: 2 sc in every stitch. 12 sc.
- Round 3: Sc around. 12 sc.
- Round 4: Sc2tog six times. 6 stitches.
Stuff lightly before closing. Fasten off and draw the opening shut. Make 18–24 berries, arranging them in groups of three.
6. Assemble
Lay the runner flat. Pin the larger leaves diagonally along the centre, alternating colours and directions.
Embroider a gently curving brown stem along the runner using chain stitch. Sew the leaves beside it, securing their centres and several outer points. Attach the berry clusters firmly between the leaves.
Weave in all ends. Gently damp-block the finished runner, shaping the cream base flat and keeping the raised leaves and berries uncompressed.